Sunday, February 12, 2012
The pattern is now available here on Ravelry as a PDF download. The pattern is priced at $5.
And the pictures.
Friday, November 25, 2011
Friday, July 1, 2011
So I made her this sweet little dress. The pattern is the Elizabeth Tunic by Amy Curletto.
And then I decided that it needed a little something extra so I made an adorable wee shrug based on the Springtime in Hollis pattern by Teresa Cole. I put my mods in my project notes on Ravelry for anyone wishing to see how I did it. But it's so super easy peasy. I love, love, love the STIH pattern because it is so versatile, I can use one pattern to make so many things with only the tiniest bit of math-fu.
And then because the outfit was so impossibly sweet I just had to try it on my own little girl. I couldn't resist. I hope the recipient doesn't mind.
And this time he picked both the yarn and the pattern. He loves Orange Flower yarn. Every time I buy some he lays claim to it as soon as I open the package. And my Midnight collection was no exception. So I searched Ravelry for man-sized patterns that I could knit with 4 skeins of dk weight yarn and this is what the hubby picked from what I found. It was a good choice, but I suppose any man that married me must have good taste. ;)
Friday, June 3, 2011
So without further ado here is the pattern for the Bubble Bum Baby Bloomers.
This is a pattern for bloomers or “boy shorts”. It is easy to add a skirt for a skirty with bloomers underneath. Or instead of doing the short ribbed legs/cuffs you can also knit this pattern into shorties or longies.
Skills needed are cast on, knit, purl, yarn over, purl 2 together, increases (see abbreviations below for type), short rows, kitchener stitch and bind off.
Gauge is 5 spi. Please use needle size required to get gauge. You will also need a needle two sizes smaller than needed to get gauge.
Here are a few abbreviations that are used in the pattern.
k – knit
p – purl
m1f – Make one front. Lift the bar running between stitches onto a needle from front to back. Knit this stitch through the back loop. Also known as M1L (make one left)
m1b – Make one back. Lift the bar running between stitches onto a needle from back
to front. Knit this stitch through the front loop. Also known as M1R (make one right)
yo – yarn over
p2tog – purl 2 together
You will need stitch markers, circular needles in size required to get gauge in 16” and 12” lengths for size 3 month and up and 12” and 9” (or double pointed needles, two circulars, or one long circular needle for magic looping) for the newborn size, circular needles in two sizes smaller than required for gauge in 16” length for sizes 3 months and up and 12” for newborn size, double pointed needles in size for gauge, a yarn needle and if you choose the picot edging a crochet
Here are a couple of helpful links.
This is my preferred method for short rows. I do not describe how to work short rows in the pattern, only when to insert them. Use whatever short row method you prefer, or try this method out. http://www.woolywonder.com/forums/showpost.php?p=74291&postcount=34My
For the bloomers I used a crochet picot bind off. This is the video I found most helpful, even though it is showing an edging and not a bind off. To use it as a bind off, follow the instructions from the video only instead of inserting the crochet hook into already bound off stitches you will be inserting it into the live stitches on your needle and slipping them off the needle as you crochet into them. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mhJr-M0kKnM
Sizes are newborn (3 month, 6 month, 12 month, toddler) with hip measurements of approximately 14” (16”, 18”, 20”, 22”) and rise measurements of 12”(14”, 16”, 18”, 20”). Please knit to appropriate hip measurement rather than age for the best fit. Sizing by age is an approximate and as we all know babies come in all shapes and sizes. It is easy to adjust the rise as well for the best possible fit.
Using a stretchy cast on, I use the backwards loop cast on, cast 64 (72, 80, 88, 96) stitches onto the smaller needle. Place a marker and join in the round. Knit in k2, p2 ribbing for 1.5(1.5, 2, 2, 2) inches. If desired insert an eyelet row for your drawstring at about 1(1, 1.25, 1.25, 1.25) inches from your cast on edge. To do this do one row of *k2, yo, p2tog* repeat between ** around. On the following row resume your k2, p2 rib pattern.
Once you have knit in 2x2 rib for 1.5(1.5, 2, 2, 2) inches switch to your main color if using both trim and colorway and your larger needles.
Row 1 k24(27, 30, 33, 36) pm, k16(18, 20, 22, 24) pm, k24(27, 30, 33, 36)
Row 2 knit to first marker, m1b, slip marker, knit to second marker, slip marker, m1f, k
nit to end of round.
Row 3 knit all stitches, slipping markers as you come to them.
Row 4 knit to first marker, m1b, slip marker, knit to second marker, slip marker, m1f, knit to end of round.
Repeat rows 3 and 4 for a total of 4(4, 4, 8, 6) increase rows. Y
ou should now have 72(80, 88, 104, 112) stitches. You can now remove the stitch markers for the increases, don't take out your start of row marker.
Now just knit until your work measures 3(4, 5, 6, 7) inches from the cast on edge. If you are making a skirty then you may want to insert a purl row somewhere in here to make it easier to pick up stitches for the skirt. Or not. It's up to you.
When your work measures 3(4, 5, 6, 7) inches from the cast on edge it's time for some short rows. Insert hip markers by knitting 18(20, 22, 26, 28) pm, k 36(40, 44, 52, 56) pm, k18(20, 22, 26, 28). On the next round knit till one stitch before the second marker, and insert a short row using your preferred method, turning again at one stitch before the first maker. Knit around closing both gaps and then insert a second short row, this time turning at 3 stitches before each marker. Do this for a total of 5 short rows, moving two stitches closer to the center back each time.
Knit one complete round, removing your hip markers and placing markers for gusset increases. Do this by knitting one, pm, k34(38, 42, 50, 54) pm, k2, pm, k34(38, 42, 50, 54) pm, m1f, k1. This should bring you back to your beginning of row marker, which you can remove at this point. The last marker that you placed is your new beginning of row marker. So continue this first row by k1, m1b, knit to next marker, slip marker, m1f, k2, m1b, slip marker and then knit to next marker. This is row one of your gusset.
Row 2 knit around slipping markers as you come to them.
Row 3 m1f, k4, m1b, slip marker, k to next marker, slip marker, m1f, k4, m1b, slip marker and knit to first marker.
Row 4 knit around slipping markers as you come to them
Row 5 m1f, k6, m1b, slip marker, k to next marker, slip marker, m1f, k6, m1b, slip marker, *k2, p2* repeat between ** to end of round. This is the start of establishing the 2x2 ribbing for the leg cuffs. If you prefer 1x1 ribbing then *k1, p1* instead of *k2, p2*. Or if you are knitting shorties or longies leave out the ribbing entirely.
Row 6 knit 8, slip marker, *k2, p2* repeat between ** to next marker, slip marker, k8, slip marker, *k2, p2* repeat between ** to end of round.
Row 7 m1f, knit 8, m1b, slip marker, *k2, p2* repeat between ** to next marker, slip marker, m1f, k8, m1b, slip marker, *k2, p2* repeat between ** to end of round.
Row 8 On this round remove the markers as you come to them. Knit the first 10 stitches onto a double pointed needle. Knit the next 34(38, 42, 50, 54) stitches onto your 12” (or 9” if you are doing the newborn size) circular needle keeping in the k2, p2 rib pattern. Knit the next 10 stitches onto a second double pointed needle. Leave the remaining 34(38, 42, 50, 54) stitches on the needle or move them to waste yarn if the needle is in your way.
Kitchener the gusset stitches that are on the double pointed needles together.
Starting with your left leg (the one on the shorter circuler needle) pick up two stitches from the gusset, place a marker for the start of your round and *k2, p2* around for four rounds.
If you are making boy shorts style then bind off loosely in pattern, repeat for the second leg. Weave in your ends and you are done!
If you are making bloomers then knit all stitches one round, bind off with the picot bind off, repeat for the second leg, weave in your ends and you are done!
If you are making longies or shorties then don't do the ribbing, knit till your desired inseam, add your desired cuff, bind off, weave in ends and you are done.
If you are making a skirty then finish as for bloomers and go back and add the skirt style of your choosing. At a later day I will add instructions for one style of skirty that I like.
This pattern has not been tested. That makes everyone who knits it my testers. So if you find any issues, typos, incorrect numbers, etc please let me know so that I can fix the pattern. I have done my best to insure there are no typos and the numbers work out, but I am human and I make mistakes. Some days a lot of them.
Please do not copy this pattern and distribute it either for free or profit. It's a free pattern, if you know someone that wants a copy please just direct them here to my blog. I cannot control what you do with objects you knit from my pattern so do with them whatever you please. However I do ask that you please give credit to this pattern by name if you sell finished objects made from it.
Wednesday, September 29, 2010
I have been looking for a pumpkin hat pattern for my girls and I just wasn't finding one that was everything I wanted. None were quite perfect so I came up with one that works for me. First I made a hat for my younger daughter and then improved on it when I made a hat for my older girl.
The yarn that I used was Cascade Yarns Cash Vero Aran. It is amazingly buttery soft, perfect for hats for little heads. The colors I chose are Rust for the pumpkin and Light Olive for the stem and leaf. The leaf pattern I used is the just a leaf pattern.
Gauge is approximately 5 spi in stockinette.
To get that gauge I used size 6 needles, both circular needles and dpns. I used size 7 dpns to knit the leaf.
ssk: slip one stitch as if to knit, slip second stitch as if to purl, knit these two stitches together through the back loops
k2tog: knit 2 stitches together as one
Cast on in a multiple of 10. For my gauge of 5 spi I would cast on 60 for a 0-3 month size, 70 for 3-12 month, 80 for toddler, 90 for child and 100 to make an adult size.
Join in the round and *k8, p2* around. Repeat this row until your hat is the desired length. When in doubt make it longer rather than shorter because you can always roll the brim up. I suggest about 4.5" for 0-3 month size, 5" for 3-12 month, 6" for toddler and 7+" for the child and adult sizes.
Decrease as follows.
Row 1: *ssk, k4, k2tog, p2* repeat around
Row 2: *k6, p2* repeat around
Row 3: *ssk, k2, k2tog, p2* repeat around
Row 4: *k4, p2* repeat around
Row 5: *ssk, k2tog, p2* repeat aroundRow 6: Switch to stem color and knit around.
Row 7: *k2, k2tog* repeat around
Row 8: knit around
Row 9: *k1, k2tog* repeat around
Row 10: knit around
Row 11: k2tog around until only 4 stitches remain.
Knit in i-cord until stem is desired length, approximately 2 inches. On last row of i-cord knit the 2 middle stitches together to decrease to a 3 stitch i-cord. At this point you can add the leaf from the pattern linked above. After binding off the leaf, you can attach the base of the leaf to the base of the stem making a loop of the i-cord as seen in the picture below. If you choose not to add a leaf to the stem then just end i-cord stem at desired length, cut yarn and thread through stitches and secure yarn to inside of hat.
And modeled by my older daughter.